A visit to Port Arthur Historic Site - The best history lesson on Australia's convict past

Thursday, September 23, 2021

 


IF you’re planning a trip to Tasmania, chances are you have heard of Port Arthur. An incredibly preserved slice of Australian history – this corner of Tasmania has a checkered past. It started out in 1830 as a penal station but by 1833 became the hub of punishment for the worst criminals in Australia – with repeat offending convicts from across the country calling it home.


But the story of blood and gore doesn’t stop there. In 1996, Port Arthur became the site of a deadly massacre that changed Australia’s gun laws forever after 28-year-old Martin Byrant took a gun and slaughtered 35 people and wounded another 19.


To this day, it’s considered one of the deadliest shootings by a lone culprit.


With such a loaded history – this site required at least half a day for it to be covered properly. Despite the painful past, Port Arthur is picturesque with beautiful historical ruins positioned by the sparkling waters.


Among the wrecks is the Penitentiary – the largest sandstone building on the site which originated as a flour mill and granary before being converted into a prison. It’s always eerie to walk through places that hold such gruesome memories but if you’re a history buff like me – there is plenty to learn here.


While the entire site is special – for me, two structures stood out.


Firstly, the church which is set to the back of the grounds but can be spotted kilometres away beaming at you. Religion played a huge part in the reformation of convicts so it’s only natural that the Church was equally huge – understood to have held services for up to 1100 people. It’s also special because even in such difficult circumstances, the church remained a symbol of hope and unity.


The church was followed closely in second position by the hospital which appealed to me because of  its stunning location on a hill pverlooking the water. It’s the most beautiful spot and walking to it made me feel like I was in Scotland because sandstone ruins are few and far in between Down Under.


Apart from these major structures, I loved exploring the homes of important bureaucrats and their families that are scattered across the grounds with the commandment’s house being another must-see location.


With so much to see, there are three ways you can get your taste of Port Arthur:


1.Guided tour: Port Arthur visitors get the option of joining a 40-minute introductory walking tour that comes as a part of your ticket and is a great way to hear all the stories that surround this heritage site.


2. Boat Cruise: Also included in the general ticket price is a 25-minute boat cruise around the bay. The captain of the cruise must have been a comedian in a former life because he managed to make even the sinister subject funny thanks to a litany of anecdotes and jokes. The boat goes around the harbour to the Point Puer Boy’s Prison and the Isle of the Death – the resting place of a thousand bodies. You can pay extra to stop off with a guide to explore both places in a little more depth. We didn't get off at either stops as we were at the site for only half a day.


3. Ghost tour: This super popular activity does require you to stay the night at Port Arthur, but I certainly recommend it. And I’m not the only one who thought so because the tours were booked out on so many dates during our trip. Luckily, I was able to secure a booking by shuffling the itinerary. With very little light pollution, the sky was shimmering with the milky way – the perfect back drop for the spooky tales that become more of a history lesson once you’ve settled your nerves.

 

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